NC Miata Chassis Mount Wing Install Guide
Karl Hertel takes on installing a NC Chassis Mount Wing
13MM socket and/or wrench
Drill with 1/8” and 3/8” drill bit
1/8” allen key
Dremel or cut off wheel with metal cutting blade
Painter (blue) tape
Spare trunk lid
Step 1: Organize the parts from the kit
Remove all of the parts from packaging and verify that all parts have been included.
(4) Allen head bolts (pre-installed on the wooden end plates)
(6) Larger bolts with nyloc nuts for attaching uprights to vehicle
(4) Smaller bolts with serrated lock nuts for attaching wing to endplates
Step 2: Measurement for upright location
There is room on the rain rail to move the uprights back and forward depending on your plans for the car. I wanted to retain the use of the trunk, so I left the lid on the car to take these measurements. I wanted to verify the uprights did not interfere with the trunks function. Please double check the measurements provided below!! It is much easier to double check everything before you start drilling than deal with holes in the wrong position after!! There are multiple methods for finding the mounting locations, but this is the method that worked for me.
If you are concerned with marring the paint inside the rain rail than use your blue painters tape to protect the area. However, if you do not use the tape it will be much easier to visualize where the holes should be. Measuring from the end of the trunk gas piston (photo 1), and create a mark at 5 1/2” (photo 2).
This location moves the mount as far forward as I felt comfortable, while not interfering with the trunks function. This is in effort to shift the center of pressure forward as well. Look at photo 3 to see where this positions the upright.
To set the height of the hole my goal was to always center it in the rain rail. This provides the maximum amount of material for the bolt and nut to attach. The height should be about 1/2” from the bottom of the rain rail (photo 4)
Step 3: Remove trunk lid
Before we mark the other holes and start drilling, we need to remove the trunk. There are two options for removing the trunk lid. You can remove the skin only (option 1), or you can remove the skin and the hinges (option 2). I chose the second option so that I would not need to reset the position of the trunk lid on the hinges.
Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen the 4 nuts (see the blue arrows in Photo 4 or 5 depending on which removal method is chosen). Be very careful when removing the last nut!! The assembly may fall, so having some assistance from a friend or being ready to brace the weight is very important. Set the assembly aside for later modification. We will need to cut the trunk lid to make room for the uprights!! If you do not want to cut your original trunk lid, then source a spare for use with your wing like I did.
Step 4: Mounting and drilling the upright
Now we are ready to start drilling! Make sure you pull the weather strip up otherwise the drill will damage it (photo 7). For reference later, the end result once all 3 holes are drilled will look like photo 8.
Use your center punch and hammer to mark the first hole that we measured earlier. Now use the 1/8- inch drill bit to create a pilot hole. Once that is complete drill the final diameter with the 3/8” drill bit.
Now that one hole is complete, insert the larger bolt and nyloc nut (photo 9). I chose to put the nut on the inside of the trunk and the bolt head on the outside to give a cleaner look. Use the socket and ratchet on the outside and the wrench on the inside (photo 10). Be careful not to drop the nut inside the trunk when installing!! Do not tighten down this fastener completely. We want it to be snug but the upright still able to be rotated.
Optional- I grabbed some larger washers from around my garage to put on the backside of the bolt. I wanted to increase the clamping surface to minimize the stress on the rain rail sheet metal. Put these on the bolt before you install the nut (photo 11).
Now we will focus on hole #2. Rotate the upright down, and make sure that it clears the hinge assembly. To center the hole on the rail it should be around ½” from the bottom surface (photo 12). Use your sharpie and mark the hole using the upright as a guide (photo 12). Repeat the punch and drilling process from hole #1.
Install the nuts and bolts in hole #2 and tighten down both sets of hardware to ensure the placement for the last hole (photo 13). Again, use the sharpie and hole in the upright as a guide to mark the drilling point for the final hole. Remove the nut and bolt from hole #2 and loosen the nut and bolt on hole #1. This will allow the upright to be rotated out of the way to drill the final hole. Repeat the drilling process on the hole #3 location.
If you used tape to protect the paint this should be removed now. You will need to remove the bolt and nut from hole #1 to do this. Once the tape is removed reinstall all of the bolts, nuts, and optional washers to fully attach the upright to the car. Tighten down the nuts firmly and periodically check them for looseness after track use. The finished product should like photo 14.
One side done!!
Step 5: Repeat steps 2 and 4 on the driver’s side
Step 6: Mounting the wing
This step is much easier with some help, so try and get a second set of hands for this! Lift the wing into position and install the bolts and nuts into the rear most holes on the uprights first (photo 15) on both the left and right side of the vehicle. Loosely fasten down the hardware using 10 and 11 millimeter tools (photo 15) allowing the wing to still rotate.
The remaining hole location will set the angle of attack for the wing. Determine the desired angle, rotate the wing into position, and install the hardware into the second position (photo 15) setting the AOA. Tighten down all 4 bolts and nuts securing the wing to the uprights.
Step 7: Mounting the end plates
Use the allen wrench and remove the bolts and wooden shipping protection “end plates” (photo 17).
Grab the actual end plates and install them to the wing using the same allen head bolts that were just removed (photo 18).
Step 8: Trunk lid modification
Take your time with this part. The measurements I am providing are approximate, and I highly suggest you check and recheck before cutting. Remember, you can always make additional cuts, but it is much harder to add material after it is removed!!
Protect the trunk surface and edges with tape (photo 19).
I took my measurements from the bottom edge of the trunk lid (photo 20).
Starting from the bottom surface I made marks along the edge at the 1” and 8 ½” ticks of the tape measure (photo 21).
Now we need to add depth to the cut. Extend the top line ½” and the bottom line ¾” (photo 22).
Connect the 2 lines to create the area that will be cut (photo 23).
Grab your cutting tool of choice and put on your safety glasses. Hold the trunk lid down securely and make your cuts. If you want tighter tolerances than start with a smaller cutout and gradually increase the size until the desired fit and finish is achieved. Remove the painters tape when finished.
Repeat this process on the opposite side and reinstall the trunk lid with the 10 mm socket for a test fit. The clearances should look like Photo 24. If additional trimming is needed remove the lid and continue trimming in small increments.
Step 9: Completion and notes
Congratulations!! Sit back and admire your newly installed wing (photo 25)!!
If you are planning on adding the wing to your NC and are using it for track use, you might want to consider adding a splitter to the front. With only the wing, the car will pickup more understeer. I was personally still faster with the just the wing, but the car was not properly balanced until after I added the “Sturdy Boii” splitter mounts and splitter. This full package had a dramatic impact on cornering speed and the ability to apply the throttle earlier.
Here are a few action shots of the car on track competing in the TT5 class with NASA. The Nine Lives aero products have been a significant factor in the car, and I reaching the podium on many occasions!!